Wednesday, July 8, 2020

One Perfect Peach

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Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.
Wednesday, July 8, 2020
One Perfect Peach

Good morning. I’m firmly of the opinion that you get one really good peach a year, if you’re lucky, if you don’t live in the South or next to a peach orchard. One peach, soft and juicy and sweet. That’s something to treasure. When I get one, I eat it slowly, with joy.

Of course you’ll get plenty of pretty good peaches along the way, the kind you might use for peach pie or peach cobbler, and definitely for Jerrelle Guy’s new recipe for peach poundcake (above). It’s just terrific. Puréed peaches in the batter keep the cake moist, diced ones add a slick sweetness and a peach glaze ties it all together. Jerrelle suggests serving the cake with lightly sweetened whipped cream. Co-sign!

Have that for dessert this week after a dinner of caprese salad with grilled garlic bread, or a pasta salad with summer tomatoes, basil and olive oil, and see if it doesn’t change the color of your mood ring. (No good tomatoes yet? Try this exquisite sweet corn salad with a wedge of Camembert on the side.)

In another lane, you might take a look at Yewande Komolafe’s sheet-pan gochujang chicken and roasted vegetables, which is super with rice and Eric Kim’s quick kimchi with grape tomatoes.

Me, I’m going to make clam fritters at some point this week, serve them with Paul Carmichael’s curried rice, then have a chocolate pudding for dessert just as I used to when I was 10 and my mom made them special in the summer, a memory I’d lost until I rediscovered the recipe.

I’m going to grill some vegetables, too, serve them under David Tanis’s tahini dressing, room temperature, along with a platter of grilled chicken thighs showered in salt and pepper. You don’t need a recipe for that. Just get some color on them on the hot side of your grill, then move them to a cooler location so you can smoke-roast them under the cover for 25 minutes or so, allowing them to get golden and crisp. Serve that with harissa if you have it, or hot sauce if you don’t. A few warm pitas would not be unwelcome. Nor would an extra drizzle of David’s dressing.

Thousands and thousands of actual recipes are waiting for you on NYT Cooking, at least if you have a subscription to our site and apps. If you don’t, I hope you will consider subscribing today. Your subscription allows us to continue doing this work that we love.

We’ll be standing by to help if anything goes wrong along the way, either in your kitchen or with your computer. Just write: cookingcare@nytimes.com. We will get back to you, I promise.

Now, it’s a long distance from cream sauce and mustard, but this is a fascinating read: Tana Wojczuk on the 19th century American actress Charlotte Cushman, in the Smithsonian magazine.

You should also take a look at this smart and heartbreaking piece by Maya Phillips in The Times, on rewatching the 1992 film “Bébé’s Kids,” an innocent delight for her when it came out, and now a very different work of art.

Finally, this is the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, live at Brownies back in 2002, “Tick.” That must have been some show. I’ll be back on Friday.

 

Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.
Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.
40 minutes, 2 to 2 1/2 cups
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Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.
Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.
2 hours, plus cooling, 1 (9-by-5-inch) cake
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Christopher Testani for The New York Times
Christopher Testani for The New York Times
45 minutes, 4 to 6 servings
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Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.
Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.
25 minutes, plus marinating and cooling, 8 to 10 servings
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Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Iah Pinkney
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Iah Pinkney
1 hour, 6 servings
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