Monday, February 28, 2022

What to Cook Right Now

Tomorrow is Mardi Gras, which means today is for letting gumbo burble on the stove.

What to Cook Right Now

Good morning. Mardi Gras is Tuesday, and New Orleans is much on my mind. That's occasion enough to make gumbo this evening, so it has time to cure in the refrigerator before eating it for dinner tomorrow night. I like Paul Prudhomme's recipe for that, though you may prefer Leah Chase's for Creole gumbo (above) or the duck and andouille gumbo they used to serve at Upperline, before the restaurant closed last year. That and a Sazerac? That's a parade.

What to eat tonight, while the gumbo burbles along? Keep it simple: silken tofu with spicy soy dressing alongside a bowl of rice. (Make enough rice so that there are leftovers for some crispy fried rice with bacon and cabbage later in the week.) Or maybe these sheet-pan cumin pork chops and brussels sprouts? That's a terrific meal.

Alternatively, look in the refrigerator and see what you can find to riff on without using a recipe at all. For instance, I had some leftover coronation chicken salad sitting in one container and some leftover katsu curry in another, (mostly sauce). These combined delightfully in a kind of wet stir-fry with leftover rice and a dollop of mango chutney, a no-recipe recipe that only fate could have delivered. What's in your fridge? That's the game.

I'd like to make these pecan pie brownies real soon, too, and this simple crusty bread. I could go for a pizza margherita. Also, linguine with crab meat; mushroom miso soup; and steak mock frites.

And there are thousands more options waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to access the recipes, just as you need one to receive monthly shipments of survivalist gadgets and gear from a company called Battlbox. Subscriptions support our work, and I thank you for yours. (And if you don't have one yet, I thank you for subscribing today.)

You'll find even more inspiration on our social media: TikTok, YouTube and Instagram. And you can get in touch with us by email if anything goes sideways while you're cooking or using our technology: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. (You can also write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.)

Now, it's a long, long way from anything to do with the merits of cold-pressed olive oil or grade A maple syrup, but you should spend some time with Stephen Hiltner's accounting of a kayak trip through Everglades National Park in Florida, in The Times.

Here's Jonny Diamond in Smithsonian Magazine, exploring a rare pocket of old-growth forest in New England and its promise in the battle against climate change.

Faith Hill's in The Atlantic with "The Nocturnals," a wild ride with the ultra-introverts who live their lives while you're asleep. "The daytime forces all these identity possibilities on you," one person told Hill. "The nighttime, with its silence and its darkness and its solitude, helps you settle more into who you really are."

Finally, here's Cate Le Bon to play us off and into the kitchen, with "Moderation." ("I can't have it. I don't want it. I wanna touch it.") Play that one loud, and I'll be back on Wednesday.

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The Morning: Classroom disruptions

And the latest from Ukraine.

February 28, 2022

First, a news update: Delegations from Ukraine and Russia are meeting for talks. President Volodymyr Zelensky expressed little optimism that the meeting would end the fighting. Find more details below — and on The Times's website.

Good morning. We look at the surprising number of recent classroom shutdowns in the U.S.

Noelle Rodriguez working from home in Fresno, Calif.Tomas Ovalle for The New York Times

One in four

The debate over Covid-19 school closures can sometimes seem to be settled. There is now a consensus that children learned much less than usual — and that their mental health suffered — when schools were shut for months in 2020 and 2021. This consensus helps explain why very few school districts fully closed during the Omicron surge.

But Covid-related school shutdowns did not really end during Omicron. They instead became more subtle, often involving individual schools, classrooms or groups of students, rather than entire districts.

My colleagues at The Upshot recently conducted a poll, in collaboration with the survey firm Dynata, of almost 150,000 parents around the country. The results reveal much more lost school time during the Omicron wave than many people understood.

I was genuinely surprised by the numbers: In January, more than half of American children missed at least three days of school. About 25 percent missed more than a week, while 14 percent of students missed nine or more days. For tens of millions of American children last month, school wasn't anywhere close to normal.

Source: Dynata survey of 148,400 parents.

The data, as my colleagues Claire Cain Miller and Margot Sanger-Katz write, "demonstrates the degree to which classroom closures have upended children's education and parents' routines, even two years into the pandemic. Five days of in-person school each week used to be virtually guaranteed. Some parents are now wondering if they'll get that level of certainty again."

These quiet closures have large costs. Even brief school disruptions can cause students to fall behind, research has found, with the effects largest among boys and children from low-income families, Claire and Margot note. "Routine is really important for young children's sense of stability," said Anna Gassman-Pines, a Duke University professor who specializes in psychology and neuroscience.

The disruptions also create problems for parents, especially working-class parents who cannot do their jobs remotely as easily as many white-collar professionals can. Noelle Rodriguez, a hair stylist in Fresno, Calif., moved her salon to her house, installing a sink and buying a hair dryer chair, because she assumed her children would not reliably be going to school. Her husband could not watch them, because he is a sheet metal foreman who cannot work from home.

Rodriguez was right to assume school would be disrupted: Her third-grade daughter was home for two weeks at one point, and Rodriguez could not see customers. "I cannot collect unemployment, I don't get any sick pay, I'm self-employed, so I had zero income during that time," she said.

Unavoidable trade-offs

The obvious question is whether these partial school shutdowns are doing more good or more harm.

Unfortunately, there is no simple answer. The Omicron surge led to a sharp increase in Covid-19 hospitalizations and deaths. If schools had allowed children, teachers and other staff members to go to school while they had Covid — and were contagious — they could have made the toll even worse.

But many districts went further than requiring only contagious people to stay home. Some also told people to stay home if they had been exposed to Covid even if they hadn't tested positive — or told them to stay home for many days after a positive test, likely beyond the window of infectiousness. These policies sometimes left schools without enough staff to function.

In justifying the policies, school administrations have frequently said that they are acting out of an abundance of caution. It's not so simple, though. Being abundantly cautious about Covid has other downsides. It can sometimes require a lack of caution in other areas, like children's educational progress and mental health, as well as their parents' jobs.

"It means a lot of anxiety, and it's just not sustainable for the long haul," said M. Cecilia Bocanegra, a psychotherapist in the Chicago area and mother of three who has been frustrated by the disruptions. (The Upshot's story recreates the chaotic calendars of a few families.)

A recent poll by the Pew Research Center indicates that Bocanegra's attitude is becoming more common. Most parents told Pew that they wanted districts to give priority to students' academic progress and emotional well-being when deciding whether to keep schools open. By contrast, in the summer of 2020 — before vaccines were available — most parents instead wanted schools to put a higher priority on minimizing Covid risks.

As has often been the case during the pandemic, there are some partisan differences here. Democratic areas have been quicker on average to disrupt classrooms than Republican areas, the Dynata survey suggests:

Source: Dynata survey of 148,400 parents.

Burbio, a research firm that tracks school closures, has found a similar pattern. And the Pew poll found that Democratic parents wanted schools to give similar weight to Covid risks, academic progress and students' emotional well-being; Republican parents wanted schools to put more weight on academics and mental health than on Covid exposure.

What now?

Whatever your views are, I think it's worth remembering that both approaches have public health benefits and costs.

If schools make reducing Covid cases the top priority, they will probably be able to reduce cases — but will also cause more learning loss and family disruption. The strongest argument for this approach is that it protects unvaccinated, immunocompromised and elderly people while a deadly virus is still causing widespread harm.

If schools make returning to normal the top priority, they will probably reduce learning loss and family disruptions — but will also create more Covid exposure. The strongest argument for this approach is that it protects children and less-affluent families at a time when most severe Covid illness is occurring among unvaccinated people who have voluntarily accepted that risk.

With Omicron receding, this dilemma is becoming easier to resolve: School disruptions have declined in recent weeks. But the dilemma has not disappeared. Many schools are still not functioning normally, and future Covid surges — which would force a new round of hard choices — remain possible.

"We may be moving into a new phase of the pandemic," Bree Dusseault of the Center on Reinventing Education at Arizona State University, told Claire, "where schools are generally kept open but there are sporadic bursts of disruption to smaller groups of students."

More on the virus:

New York City will end its mask mandate in schools next week if cases remain low.

THE LATEST NEWS

Ukraine-Russia
Russian military vehicles outside Kyiv, Ukraine's capital.Maxar Technologies, via Associated Press
  • As delegations from Ukraine and Russia met for talks, fighting continued, with Russian forces massing outside Kyiv.
Other Big Stories
Opinions

The Supreme Court seems determined to thwart federal action to fight climate change, Jody Freeman writes.

Ash Wednesday is a somber reminder that our lives are brief, Margaret Renkl writes.

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MORNING READS

Critically endangered Azuero spider monkeys.

World Through a Lens: In search of Panama's elusive spider monkeys.

Advice from Wirecutter: A good kitchen scale is the secret weapon of many ace bakers.

Lives Lived: Leo Bersani was a scholar of French literature, but he found renown for his argument that gay men should embrace a more radical lifestyle that rejected the rules of male-female relationships. He died at 90.

ARTS AND IDEAS

Clay Hickson

Finding the perfect word

What's your go-to starting Wordle word?

Regular players of the daily word puzzle tend to have strong feelings about their opening strategies, Emma Dibdin writes in The Times. Some maximize the number of vowels, as with ADIEU. Others emphasize common consonants, as in NORTH.

Dibdin spoke to Wordle fans about their favorite starters:

Beth Biester, an English teacher in Ohio, says her first word is IRATE, with MOUSY as a fallback.

J. Smith-Cameron, who plays Gerri on "Succession," likes to switch up her opening word: SUAVE and ATONE are two favorites.

Monica Lewinsky cycles among a few, including HOIST and ARISE.

PLAY, WATCH, EAT

What to Cook
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

A Cheddar, cucumber and marmalade sandwich makes for a sweet and salty lunch.

Theater

The Times spoke to four playwrights whose new shows invite audiences to laugh.

Classical

World politics intruded on Carnegie Hall, but the Rachmaninoff concerto went on — and the show was "miraculous in its execution," Joshua Barone writes.

Now Time to Play

The pangram from Saturday's Spelling Bee was toothpick. Here is today's puzzle — or you can play online.

Here's today's Wordle. Here's today's Mini Crossword, and a clue: Up to this point (five letters).

If you're in the mood to play more, find all our games here.

Thanks for spending part of your morning with The Times. See you tomorrow. — David

P.S. The word "lumpsucker" — a three-inch fish with suction cups and toothy scales — recently appeared for the first time in The Times.

"The Daily" is about the battle for Kyiv. "Sway" features an interview with Maggie Gyllenhaal.

Claire Moses, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Tom Wright-Piersanti, Ashley Wu and Sanam Yar contributed to The Morning. You can reach the team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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