Friday, December 31, 2021

Recipes for New Year’s Eve

Put together a Dutch baby with bacon and Camembert, to eat with a glass of something bubbly.

Recipes for New Year's Eve

Good morning. Greetings from isolation on this final day of what was for many an unsettling, un-fun year. There'll be no Champagne and caviar for me tonight, no elegant roast, no countdown to 2022. I might tie some flies, listen to an old Ry Cooder show. Quarantine and testing, here's to auld lang syne.

I hope that's not the case for you. I hope you're safe and happy in the embrace of family or friends, that you've got a good and safe plan for celebrating, that maybe you'll look around in the fridge and be able to put together this Dutch baby with bacon and runny Camembert (above) to eat with cocktails, before something grand for dinner and the wait for the ball to drop.

And then for the morning, the first of the year, how about eggnog overnight French toast? Or, if you prefer a savory start, fried eggs, oven bacon and perfect hash browns?

And then to follow at dinner, some black-eyed peas and greens? Kayla Stewart explored the tradition of cooking them for The Times recently, with recipes for collard greens and cornmeal dumplings, and for black-eyed peas with rice.

But maybe not. Maybe you, like so many, like me, have been caught up in the spread of the omicron variant and find yourself in seclusion either with those you live with or all alone, and wondering if a peanut butter sandwich might be the best option for this evening (on warm toast, with chile crisp and pickles), or if a baked potato might be more festive (fully loaded, please!).

Me, I hauled a couple of pork chops out of the freezer the other day — beautiful heritage pork, red and marbled with fat, off an animal that took yoga and read poetry and had only one bad day in its life — and could see my way to making pork chops in onion gravy tonight. There'll be enough meat left over for a pork chop po' boy on New Year's Day, the meat cut off the bone and heated through in the leftover gravy, to put on a toasted hero roll with cold shredded iceberg lettuce and a few dollops of hot sauce. I'm living large.

We have many thousands more actual recipes to cook tonight, tomorrow and tomorrow's tomorrow waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You do need a subscription to access them, it's true. Subscriptions support our work. I'm so thankful to you if you've already secured one. If you haven't, I hope you will you consider subscribing today. Thanks.

And please don't hesitate to get in touch with us if something kooky happens while you're cooking or preparing to cook. We're at cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. (You can also write to me, if you're particularly exercised or just want to say hello: I'm at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.)

Now, it's nothing to do with tournedos Rossini or a salmon and caviar croque monsieur, but I'm dipping into "Yellowstone" on Peacock and enjoying the scenery. The show itself? "Bloodline" crossed with "Succession" crossed with "Sons of Anarchy," with some "Dynasty" and "The Sopranos" in there, too.

I've had Gilbert Cruz's "The Essential Stephen King" bookmarked since he published the guide in 2020. I wanted a great crime novel and Gilbert delivered: King's "The Outsider," my very first King. (Literally, my first. I'm working up to the scary stuff.)

It is old-school travel writing of the sort that you don't see very often these days, but Ben Lerwill's visit to Devon, on Britain's southeast coast, for National Geographic, introduced me to the term coasteering, which looks pretty cool.

Finally, for Katy Tur and the rest of the fans who won't be at Madison Square Garden tonight because the shows were canceled, here's Phish on New Year's Eve back in 2018, "Mercury" into "Say It to Me S.A.N.T.O.S." Noodly noodly! Have a wonderful holiday and I'll see you on Sunday.

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The Morning: Happy new year

We wish you a happy and healthy 2022.

December 31, 2021

Good morning. We wish you a happy and healthy 2022. Below, a look at some unusual New Year's Eves.

Ringing in 1973 in Times Square.Michael Evans/The New York Times

New Year's Eve

David Carr, the late Times columnist and media critic, starred in videos years ago that were shot in Times Square. At the end of them, he cheerily said: "They call it Times Square for a reason."

Carr's point was that many people don't know that the square is named for the newspaper. New York City changed the name from Longacre Square in 1904, in honor of The Times moving its offices there.

Adolph Ochs, who was the publisher of The Times at the time, celebrated the move by staging a New Year's Eve fireworks display in the square. He organized the first midnight ball drop three years later, a tradition that continues even though The Times no longer occupies the building at the center of the square.

This year's celebrations will be muted as coronavirus cases surge. Attendance will be limited to 15,000 people instead of the usual 58,000. Paris, Los Angeles and other cities are also downsizing their celebrations.

Today, we're looking back. We focused on past New Year's events that resonated in this unusual year.

The Times's first New Year's: The newspaper, founded in September 1851, covered its first New Year's Eve less than four months later. It advertised religious ceremonies "appropriate to the close of the year" and stores selling New Year's presents. On Jan. 1, the paper listed the past year's notable deaths and "principal events," including a gale that struck Massachusetts, a world's fair in London and a coup in France.

The Civil War: On Dec. 30, 1862, Union troops near Murfreesboro, Tenn., played "Yankee Doodle" and "Hail Columbia." Their Confederate foes answered with "Dixie," and the two sides ended the night playing "Home, Sweet Home" together. The battle that followed, fought between New Year's Eve and Jan. 2, 1863, was among the war's deadliest.

Also on New Year's Eve 1862, abolitionists held vigils as they waited for President Lincoln to issue the Emancipation Proclamation. He did so the next day, freeing enslaved people in the states that had seceded from the Union. The vigils became the origin of the New Year's Eve services that some African American churches still hold.

World War I: America entered World War I in 1917, and Times Square on New Year's Eve that year was "thoroughly sedate and solemn," The Times reported. Soldiers and sailors, forbidden to drink, sat in restaurants and hotels. Sugar was rationed, and dinner at the Waldorf Astoria was meatless. Broadway, "ankle-deep in confetti" a year before, was "gloomy, deserted and silent."

Flu pandemic: New Year's Eve 1918 also took place during a pandemic. A brutal fall and winter wave had killed tens of thousands of Americans. By Dec. 31, some cities had loosened their public health measures, inviting a more joyous holiday. "Hotels and clubs and other places where revelers congregate to greet the new year are overdoing themselves in the way of entertainment," The Chicago Daily News reported.

And an image that may resonate in 2021: At a Milwaukee hotel ball, dancers wore masks as prescribed by the health department.

World War II: New Year's Eve 1941 — less than a month after the U.S. joined World War II — found Times Square upbeat and patriotic. More than half a million people cheered and sang the national anthem under Broadway's neon lights. "If Axis ears did not hear last night's revelry in Times Square it was not that New Yorkers didn't try," The Times reported the next day.

Still, the square featured a robust police presence, street signs with evacuation instructions and loudspeakers in the event of an air raid. And later wartime holidays were less festive. Because of the "dim outs" meant to conceal the city from a possible attack, 1942 and 1943 were the only New Year's Eves since 1907 that did not feature Times Square ball drops.

Transition to television: Today, most people experience New Year's Eve in Times Square as a television show with musical interludes. The Canadian-born musician Guy Lombardo and his band, the Royal Canadians, were early pioneers. They broadcast over the radio starting in the 1920s and, in later decades, on television, an example Dick Clark, Carson Daly and others built on. This year, too, live television will be flush with celebrity-driven countdowns. If you'll be ringing in the New Year from home, here's what to watch.

Related:

THE LATEST NEWS

The Virus
Children awaiting their vaccinations in Albuquerque.Paul Ratje for The New York Times
Politics
  • President Biden and Vladimir Putin held a 50-minute call, in which Putin warned against imposing economic sanctions on Russia.
  • A law goes into effect tomorrow that bans surprise bills that often follow medical emergencies.
Other Big Stories
Opinions

Kara Swisher makes her tech predictions for 2022.

The year's best long-form journalism, according to David Brooks.

Subscribers enjoy more.

Stay fully informed with unlimited access to every article. Subscribe to The Times today.

MORNING READS

Toxic sludge waste from a nickel mine in Goro, New Caledonia.Adam Dean for The New York Times

Sustainability: Can a tiny territory in the South Pacific power Tesla's ambitions?

Tech: Are Apple's AirTags being used to track people and steal cars?

Mom's Spaghetti: A night at Eminem's restaurant in Detroit.

Behind the scenes: Walk through the history of our weekly news quiz.

Modern Love: Eight Tiny Love Stories about fresh starts.

Lives Lived: For four decades, Ben McFall incarnated the erudite but easygoing spirit of Manhattan's Strand bookstore. And for much of that time, he had sole oversight of the fiction section. McFall has died at 73.

ARTS AND IDEAS

Art photos worth revisiting

It was a year of returns, from Broadway plays to Brooklyn parties, and The Times sent photographers to capture as much as possible. These are our favorite arts and culture photos of 2021.

What you won't find on this list: Artfully posed Zoom photos (thankfully). What you will find: photographers in theaters and studios and concert halls and museums and streets, as well as revelatory portraits of Léa Seydoux, André De Shields and a snail named Velveeta.

PLAY, WATCH, EAT

What to Cook
Romulo Yanes for The New York Times

Crisp pancakes to start the year.

What to Listen to

Enjoy these five classical musical albums.

What to Read
Now Time to Play

The pangram from yesterday's Spelling Bee was headwind. Here is today's puzzle — or you can play online.

Here's today's Mini Crossword, and a clue: Mary, Queen of ___ (five letters).

If you're in the mood to play more, find all our games here.

Thanks for spending parts of your mornings with The Times this year. Happy 2022! See you Monday.

P.S. Jeffrey Henson Scales, a Times photo editor, shared this photo of his home studio to discuss the Year In Pictures on TV:

Jeffrey Henson Scales

"The Daily" revisits Texas after the storm.

Claire Moses, Tom Wright-Piersanti and Ashley Wu contributed to The Morning. You can reach the team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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