Saturday, July 31, 2021

Zucchini Takes Center Stage

Try pan-seared zucchini, bulgogi eggplant and more of the most popular recipes of the week.

Zucchini Takes Center Stage

As July comes to a close, readers are leaning into recipes that let produce shine: Lidey Heuck's pan-seared zucchini (above), which is our most popular recipe this week; Eric Kim's bulgogi eggplant; and Ali Slagle's cucumber-avocado salad. If you're looking for something new to try on the grill, J. Kenji López-Alt's thin but juicy chargrilled burgers are perfect. And for dessert, you can't do much better than Dawn Perry's blackberry frozen yogurt pie with cracker crust. Get more of New York Times Cooking's most popular recipes of the week in this collection.

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Friday, July 30, 2021

What to Cook This Weekend

Paneer con tomate is perfect for ripe summer tomatoes.

What to Cook This Weekend

Good morning. Tejal Rao's working her box grater hard these days, as tomatoes ripen in her backyard in Los Angeles, sit sun-kissed on tables at the farmer's market or tumble off piles at the store. "At the grater," she wrote for The New York Times Magazine this week, "every tomato is the same: I make it a game to not waste a single bit of meat, to push my palm right against the metal and get down to a fine, translucent skin that curls at the edges."

She uses the resulting pulp and juice to make the Spanish snack pan con tomate, for a raw sauce for pasta, as a salad dressing and, lately, for a genius dish that she gave a jokey name: paneer con tomate (above). It's terrific. She fries store-bought cheese, then pours the grated tomato over it with a seasoning of popped mustard seeds and curry leaves bloomed in hot coconut oil. Give that a try yourself, maybe alongside a meal of seekh kebabs with mint chutney. And then I think you'll be making paneer con tomate a lot for the next couple of months.

Genevieve Ko teamed up with Priya Krishna to deliver a marvelous recipe for Texas sheet cake, along with a fascinating look into the dessert's place in Texan culture, and that cake would be a fine thing to make and eat this weekend as well.

More things to make and eat tomorrow and the next day include this skillet fish with bacon, shallots and corn, a one-pan dinner of garlicky, lemon-scented fish cooked on the stove in bacon fat. Also, a cumin tofu stir-fry that nods at Xi'an-style flavors, this grilled flank steak with Worcestershire butter, these gingery grilled chicken thighs with charred peaches, grilled corn with jalapeño-feta butter, a watermelon margarita and an easy take on Eton mess, the classic British dessert, here made with crushed store-bought meringues, strawberries mashed with lime zest, and sweetened whipped cream and cut berries.

There are thousands and thousands more recipes to cook this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking — at least if you have a subscription. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. Please, if you haven't acquired one already, I hope you will subscribe today. (You can also follow us on YouTube and Instagram. You can find our stories on Twitter.)

And we'll be standing by to offer assistance if anything goes wrong along the way. Just ask for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back you. (If you'd like to send a dart or a flower, you can write to me directly: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read each one sent.)

Now, it's a long flight to near-space from anything to do with cloudberries or Japanese barbecue, but Arthur Lubow's recent critic's notebook for The Times introduced me to the work of the Chilean photographer Sergio Larrain. (Here's Larrain's collection, "London," released by Aperture.)

The novelist Tommy Orange profiled the Native actor Wes Studi for GQ, and you'll want to read that.

Here's a new poem from August Kleinzahler in the London Review of Books, "A History of Western Music: Chapter 99."

Finally, why don't you spend a little time with Rebecca Ackermann's miniature clay sculptures, which are kind of soothing? (Last summer, for The Times, she wrote about making them.) Head into the weekend in peace. I'll see you on Sunday.

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The Morning: More Covid mysteries

Plus: A scrumptious roasted chicken parm

Good morning. Covid is more mysterious than we often admit.

Pedestrians this week in central London.Tolga Akmen/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Not in control

Consider these Covid-19 mysteries:

  • In India — where the Delta variant was first identified and caused a huge outbreak — cases have plunged over the past two months. A similar drop may now be underway in Britain. There is no clear explanation for these declines.
  • In the U.S., cases started falling rapidly in early January. The decline began before vaccination was widespread and did not follow any evident changes in Americans' Covid attitudes.
  • In March and April, the Alpha variant helped cause a sharp rise in cases in the upper Midwest and Canada. That outbreak seemed poised to spread to the rest of North America — but did not.
  • This spring, caseloads were not consistently higher in parts of the U.S. that had relaxed masking and social distancing measures (like Florida and Texas) than in regions that remained vigilant.
  • Large parts of Africa and Asia still have not experienced outbreaks as big as those in Europe, North America and South America.

How do we solve these mysteries? Michael Osterholm, who runs an infectious disease research center at the University of Minnesota, suggests that people keep in mind one overriding idea: humility.

"We've ascribed far too much human authority over the virus," he told me.

'Much, much milder'

Over the course of this pandemic, I have found one of my early assumptions especially hard to shake. It's one that many other people seem to share — namely, that a virus always keeps spreading, eventually infecting almost the entire population, unless human beings take actions to stop it. And this idea does have crucial aspects of truth. Social distancing and especially vaccination can save lives.

But much of the ebb and flow of a pandemic cannot be explained by changes in human behavior. That was true with influenza a century ago, and it is true with Covid now. An outbreak often fizzles mysteriously, like a forest fire that fails to jump from one patch of trees to another.

The experience with Alpha in the Midwest this spring is telling:

Even Osterholm said that he had assumed the spring surge would spread from Michigan and his home state of Minnesota to the entire U.S. It did not. It barely spread to nearby Iowa and Ohio. Whatever the reasons, the pattern shows that the mental model many of us have — in which only human intervention can have a major effect on caseloads — is wrong.

Britain has become another example. The Delta variant is even more contagious than Alpha, and it seemed as though it might infect every unvaccinated British resident after it began spreading in May. Some experts predicted that the number of daily cases would hit 200,000, more than three times the country's previous peak. Instead, cases peaked — for now — around 47,000, before falling below 30,000 this week.

"The current Delta wave in the U.K. is turning out to be much, much milder than we anticipated," wrote David Mackie, J.P. Morgan's chief European economist.

True, you can find plenty of supposed explanations, including the end of the European soccer tournament, the timing of school vacations and the Britain's notoriously late-arriving summer weather, as Mark Landler, The Times's London bureau chief, has noted. But none of the explanations seem nearly big enough to explain the decline, especially when you consider that India has also experienced a boom and bust in caseloads. India, of course, did not play in Europe's soccer championship and is not known for cool June weather.

'Rip through'

A more plausible explanation appears to be that Delta spreads very quickly at first and, for some unknown set of reasons, peters out long before a society has reached herd immunity. As Andy Slavitt, a former Covid adviser to President Biden, told me, "It seems to rip through really fast and infect the people it's going to infect." The most counterintuitive idea here is that an outbreak can fade even though many people remain vulnerable to Covid.

That's not guaranteed to happen everywhere, and there probably will be more variants after Delta. Remember: Covid behaves in mysterious ways. But Americans should not assume that Delta is destined to cause months of rising caseloads. Nor should they assume that a sudden decline, if one starts this summer, fits a tidy narrative that attributes the turnaround to rising vaccination and mask wearing.

"These surges have little to do with what humans do," Osterholm argues. "Only recently, with vaccines, have we begun to have a real impact."

No need for nihilism

I don't want anyone to think that Osterholm is making a nihilist argument. Human responses do make a difference: Masks and social distancing can slow the spread of the virus, and vaccination can end a pandemic.

The most important step has been the vaccination of many older people. As a result, total British deaths have risen only modestly this summer, while deaths and hospitalizations remain rarer in heavily vaccinated parts of the U.S. than in less vaccinated ones.

But Osterholm's plea for humility does have policy implications. It argues for prioritizing vaccination over every other strategy. It also reminds us to avoid believing that we can always know which behaviors create risks.

That lesson has particular relevance to schools. Many of the Covid rules that school districts are enacting seem overly confident about what matters, Osterholm told me. Ventilation seems helpful, and masking children may be. Yet reopening schools unavoidably involves risk. The alternative — months more of lost learning and social isolation — almost certainly involves more risk and greater costs to children. Fortunately, school employees and teenagers can be vaccinated, and severe childhood Covid remains extremely rare.

We are certainly not powerless in the face of Covid. We can reduce its risks, just as we can reduce the risks from driving, biking, swimming and many other everyday activities. But we cannot eliminate them. "We're not in nearly as much control as we think are," Osterholm said.

A programming note: Starting Monday, I'm taking my annual summer break from writing this newsletter. While I'm gone, an exciting rotation of Times journalists will be coming to your inbox. Up first, on Monday: Vivian Wang, reporting from China. I'll be back on Tuesday, Aug. 24.

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THE LATEST NEWS

The Virus
President Biden spoke yesterday at the White House about vaccination.Sarahbeth Maney/The New York Times
Tokyo Olympics
Sunisa Lee after winning the gold medal.Chang W. Lee/The New York Times
Other Big Stories
G.D.P. is adjusted for inflation and seasonality. | Source: Bureau of Economic Analysis
Opinions

American families are being torn apart, David Brooks writes.

Hawon Jung on the hand gesture fueling South Korea's gender war.

MORNING READS

Modern Love: She wanted kismet. Is that too much to ask?

Pedestrian paradise: The best and worst cities to live in without a car.

Advice from Wirecutter: If you care about the planet, don't use a Keurig.

Lives Lived: Carl Levin, Michigan's longest-serving senator, was held up by his peers in Washington as a paragon of probity. He died at 87.

ARTS AND IDEAS

The German gymnast Kim Bui on the beam.Ezra Shaw/Getty Images

Defying the dress code

Who gets to decide which outfits are appropriate for athletes? It's usually not the athletes themselves. But this year, some have rebelled.

Just before the Games, the European Handball Federation fined members of the Norway women's team for wearing hot pants rather than the required bikini bottoms. (Their male counterparts wear voluminous shorts.) In Tokyo, the German women's gymnastics team defied tradition by wearing ankle-length unitards to send a message "against sexualization in gymnastics."

That their protest registered as "a subversive sensation," writes Sally Jenkins in The Washington Post, "tells you just how little Olympic competitors own their otherwise powerful forms." The Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman points out that similar questions arise in many workplaces. "Individuals have increasingly rebelled against the traditional and highly gendered dress codes imposed on them."

Rebecca Liu, writing in The Guardian, describes how she was drawn as a child to the glitz of rhythmic gymnastics. "Did I, at six — at seven, at eight, at nine — ever sit down and think, 'Yes, I want to embody a conventional vision of femininity in the uncanniest and most unsettling of ways?'" she writes. "No. I had simply wanted to be pretty." — Natasha Frost, a Morning writer

PLAY, WATCH, EAT

What to Cook
David Malosh for The New York Times

You don't need much for this freestyle roasted chicken parm.

What to Watch

This intrepid documentary follows the rescue of Yazidi girls kidnapped by Islamic State fighters.

The News Quiz

How do you compare with other Times readers on the News Quiz?

Now Time to Play

The pangrams from yesterday's Spelling Bee were muzzling and unmuzzling. Here is today's puzzle — or you can play online.

Here's today's Mini Crossword, and a clue: In the dumps (four letters).

If you're in the mood to play more, find all our games here.

Thanks for spending part of your morning with The Times. This newsletter will be back in your inbox on Monday. — David

P.S. President Lyndon Johnson signed Medicare and Medicaid into law 56 years ago today.

"The Daily" is about Simone Biles's decision to drop out of the Olympics. "The Ezra Klein Show" features Nikole Hannah-Jones and Ta-Nehisi Coates on the 1619 Project.

Natasha Frost, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Tom Wright-Piersanti and Sanam Yar contributed to The Morning. You can reach the team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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