Wednesday, March 16, 2022

What to Cook Right Now

Try a stovetop salmon recipe simple enough for dorm cooking, from Genevieve Ko.

What to Cook Right Now

Good morning. Genevieve Ko is in The Times this week with a lovely dispatch from Dublin, where she traveled to get one of her daughters settled at college. There is no meal plan at the school, so her daughter will have to cook for herself. Genevieve scouted nearby shops with her, though, and came up with an ace recipe for her daughter to prepare: whiskey-glazed salmon with salt-crusted potatoes (above).

This fish is neither fried nor seared, which means it doesn't give off the smoke and scent that puts so many off stovetop salmon — a real upside in her daughter's ventless kitchen. Instead, it's cooked in a simple sauce of whiskey, sugar and Worcestershire sauce that thickens rather than spatters, heating the fillet slowly from the bottom up and providing the fish with a savory sweetness while keeping it moist.

As for the potatoes, they're made on the stovetop as well, boiled tender in salty water, then mostly drained and shaken in the pot over a flame until they're dry and crackly with salt on the exterior, and creamy within.

That sounds like an excellent meal, far better than the Steak-umms and instant ramen that made up much of my collegiate diet, and one that I'd like to cook tonight. Won't you join me?

Alternatively, you could take a look at this terrific recipe for rice cakes with peanut sauce and hoisin. As Hetty McKinnon, who developed the recipe for us, notes, rice cakes are beloved, wonderfully chewy and incredibly versatile: "They can be used as a filling substitute for short pasta, added to stews or quickly pan-fried with your favorite sauce," she writes above the recipe. "Sold in Chinese or Korean markets, they come in tubes (like those used in tteokbokki) or sliced disks, and are packaged in vacuum-sealed packs or frozen, so they keep for ages." (I like them especially in the cheese buldak the Korean cooking star Maangchi taught me to make.)

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Now, it's nothing to do with gravlax or thumbprint cookies, but I've been enjoying the roller-coaster ride that is the thriller series "Pieces of Her," on Netflix. But then again, I'd enjoy watching Toni Collette read Apple's terms and conditions.

Charles E. Entenmann, the last of the family to run a storied Long Island bakery under their name, died last month at 92. Dan Barry, a child of Nassau County and a devoted Entenmann's consumer practically since birth, wrote about the company's place in the hearts of the people it served.

Also on Netflix, "Capitani," a police procedural set in Luxembourg, which is maybe most notable for its language, a captivating mixture of Luxembourgish and French. (Also, it's very pretty.)

Finally, see what you make of Jody Rosen's exploration of "scam rap," in The New York Times Magazine: "music by and of digital natives, a generation that has come of age on an internet swarming with dissemblers and con artists." It's fascinating! I'll be back on Friday.

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