Wednesday, September 1, 2021

It’s Time to Get Jamming

Yewande Komolafe wrote about the urge to preserve, with three new recipes.

It's Time to Get Jamming

Hello again … and goodbye! We've reached September, which means that Sam Sifton is back on the grid and will be back in your inbox on Friday.

In the meantime, have you ever made jam? I simmered up my first batch in college after reading a recipe for plum jam in Laurie Colwin's brilliant "More Home Cooking." It was her relaxed instructions that got me: no exact timing, no finicky temperatures, no fear-inducing admonishments about sterilizing jars (which you don't need to do if you make a small batch for the fridge, which will be gone in a week). You just simmer the fruit and sugar until they look like jam; that's it!

Now, I make small batches whenever I frantically buy, say, too many end-of-season peaches because I know they're about to disappear. When they all ripen, it's preserving time. Yewande Komolafe has an excellent piece out in the Food section of The Times about this urge to preserve, along with three mesmerizing recipes: fig jam scented with rosemary; a vibrant no-cook ginger-plum jam (above) that, she writes, "captures the joy of biting into a cold, crisp plum"; and a wiggy apple jelly that's first on my list. I might make it this weekend so I can serve it for Rosh Hashana dinner. It would be nice alongside honey to smear on olive oil challah.

There will definitely be some kind of fruit-filled chicken dish on the holiday menu to bring in a sweet new year. Maybe this sheet-pan recipe with roasted plums and onions, or roasted chicken with pears and figs. I might go all out and make chicken soup, too, perhaps Joan Nathan's recipe with matzo balls. And I can serve it all next to David Tanis's summer vegetable salad with charred eggplant and a little bit of anchovy (yum) before finishing with an apple cider honey cake.

Of course, there'll be plenty of meals before that. Tonight's might involve roasting the gorgeous, multicolored sweet peppers filling the markets right now. Roasting is a misnomer because really, you char them.

Making them on the grill, if you have one, is the easiest option. Simply throw the whole peppers over high heat and turn them with tongs until the skins are blackened and crinkly all over. (The grates over your stove's gas burners work, too.) Or use the broiler: Halve the peppers through their stems and plop them on a baking sheet, cut side down. Broil as close to the heating element as you can get.

Put those floppy peppers in a bowl, cover with a plate, and let steam until just cool enough to handle. Then slip off the charred bits of skin and all the seeds with your fingers, wiping your hands on a towel as you go. Don't rinse the peppers, it will just dilute their sweet juices.

I like to season the peppers with some flaky sea salt, then cover them with good olive oil and slivered garlic (and basil and anchovies if you like). They'll keep for at least a week in the fridge and for three or four months in the freezer. Serve them for a light dinner with olives, fresh goat cheese or Camembert, some sliced avocado and grilled or toasted country bread rubbed with the cut side of a garlic clove. If you need more protein, add oil-packed tuna or sardines straight from the can.

We've got plenty of recipes for other delightful end-of-summer meals, too, like this creamy, herby corn soup with optional squash blossoms. I can't wait to make Ali Slagle's ginger-mint grilled shrimp. And to satisfy my always-ready sweet tooth, Samantha Seneviratne's apple cider whoopie pies are just the thing to take us into fall.

Need more options? We've got thousands upon thousands of them at New York Times Cooking, and the beginning of autumn is a perfect time to subscribe.

You'll also find news from us on Twitter, cooking videos (including a brand-new one from Sohla and Ham El-Waylly) on our YouTube channel, and lots of stories, tips and photos on Instagram (where I'm @clarkbar, come say hi). And if you have any technical or cooking-related questions, reach out to us at cookingcare@nytimes.com; there's always someone available to help.

That's all for now!

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The Morning: Has Delta peaked?

Covid's mysterious two-month cycle, explained.

September 1, 2021

Author Headshot

By David Leonhardt and Ashley Wu

Good morning. We investigate Covid's mysterious two-month cycle.

A testing site in Auburndale, Fla., last month.Octavio Jones for The New York Times

Almost like clockwork

Has the Delta-fueled Covid-19 surge in the U.S. finally peaked?

The number of new daily U.S. cases has risen less over the past week than at any point since June, as you can see in this chart:

The New York Times

There is obviously no guarantee that the trend will continue. But there is one big reason to think that it may and that caseloads may even soon decline.

Since the pandemic began, Covid has often followed a regular — if mysterious — cycle. In one country after another, the number of new cases has often surged for roughly two months before starting to fall. The Delta variant, despite its intense contagiousness, has followed this pattern.

After Delta took hold last winter in India, caseloads there rose sharply for slightly more than two months before plummeting at a nearly identical rate. In Britain, caseloads rose for almost exactly two months before peaking in July. In Indonesia, Thailand, France, Spain and several other countries, the Delta surge also lasted somewhere between 1.5 and 2.5 months.

* Between February and July 2021, depending on the country.The New York Times

And in the U.S. states where Delta first caused caseloads to rise, the cycle already appears to be on its downside. Case numbers in Arkansas, Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and Missouri peaked in early or mid-August and have since been falling:

The New York Times

Two possible stories

We have asked experts about these two-month cycles, and they acknowledged that they could not explain it. "We still are really in the cave ages in terms of understanding how viruses emerge, how they spread, how they start and stop, why they do what they do," Michael Osterholm, an epidemiologist at the University of Minnesota, said.

But two broad categories of explanation seem plausible, the experts say.

One involves the virus itself. Rather than spreading until it has reached every last person, perhaps it spreads in waves that happen to follow a similar timeline. How so? Some people may be especially susceptible to a variant like Delta, and once many of them have been exposed to it, the virus starts to recede — until a new variant causes the cycle to begin again (or until a population approaches herd immunity).

The second plausible explanation involves human behavior. People don't circulate randomly through the world. They live in social clusters, Jennifer Nuzzo, a Johns Hopkins epidemiologist, points out. Perhaps the virus needs about two months to circulate through a typically sized cluster, infecting the most susceptible — and a new wave starts when people break out of their clusters, such as during a holiday. Alternately, people may follow cycles of taking more and then fewer Covid precautions, depending on their level of concern.

Whatever the reasons, the two-month cycle predated Delta. It has repeated itself several times in the U.S., including both last year and early this year, with the Alpha variant, which was centered in the upper Midwest:

The New York Times

What now?

We want to emphasize that cases are not guaranteed to decline in coming weeks. There have been plenty of exceptions to the two-month cycle around the world. In Brazil, caseloads have followed no evident pattern. In Britain, cases did decline about two months after the Delta peak — but only for a couple of weeks. Since early August, cases there have been rising again, with the end of behavior restrictions likely playing a role. (If you haven't yet read this Times dispatch about Britain's willingness to accept rising caseloads, we recommend it.)

In the U.S., the start of the school year could similarly spark outbreaks this month. The country will need to wait a few more weeks to know. In the meantime, one strategy continues to be more effective than any other in beating back the pandemic: "Vaccine, vaccine, vaccine," as Osterholm says. Or as Nuzzo puts it, "Our top goal has to be first shots in arms."

The vaccine is so powerful because it keeps deaths and hospitalizations rare even during surges in caseloads. In Britain, the recent death count has been less than one-tenth what it was in January.

In a few countries, vaccination rates have apparently risen high enough to break Covid's usual two-month cycle: The virus evidently cannot find enough new people to infect. In both Malta and Singapore, this summer's surge lasted only about two weeks before receding.

More on the virus:

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MORNING READS

The sisters Maritza and Reyna Vazquez started Veracruz with a food truck on Austin's East Side.Jessica Attie for The New York Times

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ARTS AND IDEAS

Fake Schieles at the Kallir Research Institute in New York City.Kallir Research Institute; Jeenah Moon for The New York Times

The many lives of fake art

What happens to works of art that turn out to be fake? In many cases, they re-enter the market: One art dealer has been offered the same fake Egon Schiele painting 10 times by 10 different collectors.

Since what determines a fake is often nothing more than an expert's opinion, owners who have paid a lot for a work are not always ready to believe that they have been duped. Many of the works are recycled to unsuspecting buyers, as Milton Esterow reports in The Times. Some universities also have fakes in their collections that they use as study tools.

"We have about 1,000 objects that were donated as fakes by dealers, collectors and auction houses," Margaret Ellis, a professor emerita at New York University, said, adding, "These help students know what they are looking at and can be extremely educational when you put them side by side with the real work."

Perhaps the most interesting fate for an art fake is to become set dressing in F.B.I. stings. The agency keeps thousands of fakes in storage — and once used six in a case that involved five bikini-clad undercover agents, a yacht off the coast of Florida and two very real French mobsters. Read more. — Sanam Yar, a Morning writer

PLAY, WATCH, EAT

What to Cook
Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Ripe figs lend their subtle sweetness to this chunky jam. You can also try these methods to make preserves out of summer fruit.

What to Listen to

Five minutes that will make you love the trumpet.

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In his latest novel, "The Magician," Colm Toibin imagines the life of Thomas Mann, the Nobel Prize-winning author.

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A boxing film from India, a breezy French romantic comedy and a charming Tunisian indie are worth streaming.

Now Time to Play

The pangram from yesterday's Spelling Bee was weighty. Here is today's puzzle — or you can play online.

Here's today's Mini Crossword, and a clue: Fit for a king (five letters).

If you're in the mood to play more, find all our games here.

Thanks for spending part of your morning with The Times. See you tomorrow. — David

P.S. "War began at 5 o'clock this morning," The Times reported on the front page 82 years ago, after Nazi Germany invaded Poland.

"The Daily" is about education in the pandemic. On "The Argument," a debate about the death penalty.

Lalena Fisher, Claire Moses, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Tom Wright-Piersanti and Sanam Yar contributed to The Morning. You can reach the team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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